![]() That may be easier said than done, especially in more urban areas. I have tried to find some pix of the hammering process from the old days but haven't turned anything up as yet.First, you find a piece of railroad track. Clearly they can be used for hand saws too. On the subject of the saw anvil itself I think these seem to be primarily intended for hammering circular saws and could be either convex, concave or flat. Just out of interest I saw this hammer up for sale recently, apparently unused! Taking that further to our humble handsaw it seems to be that we should be using the smaller end of the hammer spectrum as the type of bandsaw to which they are referring is not the one we use on our workshop machines. However, I particularly noticed in the information put up in previous posts by RayG, DSEL74 and LS Barker 1970 that there were warnings not to use the same large size hammers on bandsaw blades as circular saws. ![]() The band saw clearly has similar requirements (or limitations if you prefer) in that the front edge of the blade must not be longer than the back edge otherwise it will wander in the timber. That is not a parameter of the hand held saw, at least not at the speed at which I saw. It is subject to centrifugal force and heat, both of which will tend to expand it's diametre and overall size while ever it is hot. A circular saw has a certain requirement from hammering because it is a high speed tool. Whilst there are clear parallels between the different types of saws I think we have to be a little careful in assuming we can directly cross from one to another. I am not sure, but I suspect that it can only be achieved in high carbon steel in the same manner as tempering can only be achieved in the heat treating of high carbon steel (as opposed to mild steel that is.) In the first instance we are correcting something that has passed it's elastic limit, but in the second we are creating rigidity and that is what we call tensioning. I would like to reiterate IanW's distinction between the straightening of a plate resulting from damage or misuse and the technique of tensioning. Interesting, though I don't know what way to hit a bent saw to make it straight, I wonder is it possible to shrink a spring steel blade where needed?Ī very interesting thread so thank you to macq for starting it off. The top of your rail track looks similar in one direction at least. The guy who sold it had larger versions set up around his workshop with stands to hold big circular blades level with the anvil, they were the same on top, not dead flat but convex. The Anvil has a slight convex shape to it. And I have two friends with similar anvils. ![]() I bought a Peter Wright Saw smith's anvil off a saw smith, with a saw smith's vice if that's the right name for it ,its a leg vice with a deep 9" throat and extra wide jaws. So it looks like I have to get my anvil flat somehow, and check to see that it is at the right height, to help improve my results.Ĭan anyone else offer some advise or show and tell us of their saw doctoring tools and methods of fixing wonky saws? ![]() It was said in another thread by Rob Streeper that the face of the anvil needs to be flat for best results, which makes good sense.Īlso the anvil height needs to be suitable so that the hammer face is at the correct angle (flat) when making contact with the blade. The hammers I have, vary in their head shape and weight. This is how it came for $5 from an auction years ago. ![]() The (anvil) I have is just a 28" long by 2 3/4" wide piece of rail iron mounted 3' high on a home made stand, The saws I have are numerous and of all shapes, lengths and manufactures. There are at least 3 things required for this activity: a (clean) wonky saw, an anvil and a hammer. I've read a fair bit about saw doctoring from books and the internet, and have had a go at straightening some of the wonky blades thatĪre at my place with reasonable results in most cases. bent, kinked, warped, curved, twisted and s shaped that are the last to be (restored). There seems to be quite a few of us that end up with a lot of old saws in all conditions, and it is sometimes the ones that have the wonky bladesĮ.g. As there has been a bit mentioned in other threads about straightening saws and anvils, I thought I would start a new thread about saw anvils. ![]()
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